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The Scented Life: All about fragrance

Chandler Burr on Jacque Polges and Chanel

by Amy on April 25th, 2007

Unlike some of Mr. Burr’s reviews and articles, I really, really enjoyed this one. Chanel is a perfume house (and a fashion house, for that matter) that really resonates with me. It has such a well-defined sense of what it is, and I think these scents capture the ‘idea’ of Chanel in a bottle so eloquently. And, Cuir de Russie………….

The ‘niche’ aspect of these limited edition fragrances is another bucket of rose petals, however. The Buddhist in me says it’s wonderful - like the peal of a bell, they are transient and remind us that everything ends. But the greedy fashionista in me throws a stiletto and pouts a little, wanting to have it all, forever! Oh well, I’m sure if they’re popular enough, they’ll come back eventually.

Skin Deep
The Genie in Every Bottle Is Coco Chanel
By CHANDLER BURR

PARIS

AT 31, rue Cambon, near the Place de la Concorde and on the third floor above the Chanel store, there is an apartment with exquisite 17th-century Chinese wooden screens, no kitchen and no bedroom. Jacques Polge is the Chanel perfumer, and he knows the apartment well because it belonged to the woman everyone at Chanel refers to as “Mademoiselle.”

Coco Chanel slept and ate at the Ritz, but she entertained here. (Dinner was brought in by servants.) On one of Mr. Polge’s visits, while the apartment was closed and off limits to all but the most trusted insiders, he noticed the screens. That was years ago, however, and that is getting ahead of the story.

Since 1978, Mr. Polge has exercised a unique power in the industry. He alone both curates and guards the work of his two (only two) Chanel perfumer predecessors, Ernest Beaux and Henri Robert. He also invents new Chanel perfumes.

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1 opinion for Chandler Burr on Jacque Polges and Chanel

  • Bonus: trendspotting at the FiFis
    Jun 15, 2007 at 4:26 pm

    […] are coming out as consumers regain interest in niche or vintage scents thanks to Chanel’s recent offerings.  More feminine florals that are buoyed up by spices or woods instead of amber, vanilla, and fruit […]

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